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If you like to admire & share chip stacks. I felt like the new player guide could be better, so I put this guide together to hopefully make the learning path a little easier for new players. This is going to be mainly a collection of links to outside resources vs. Straight exposition from me. I will rely very heavily on 2+2 because it's the nuts. If you disagree with anything I say, or if you think I should add a resource, please let me know. I will not be offended.
Important Starting Concepts. You Suck.but so did everyone.
So maybe you do OK in your home game, or maybe you once won a freeroll, but I will lay 100-1 odds that you are actually terrible at poker. Yeah, there is an outside chance you're just a poker genius, but in all liklihood, you actually have no idea what you're doing and have simply gotten lucky so far. Right now, you just don't know what you don't know. Don't let your ego stop you from improving and don't be a victim of the The rabbit hole of poker knowledge is so incredibly deep, that I could hardly believe it once I started studying.
There are some terms that are not covered. If you come across something you don't know, just google it along with 'poker' and you'll find something that will help. Where to play online. For US players, pick a site from. For everyone else, I would start on.
Before you sign up for any site, search for rakeback deals. Poker rooms make their money from the rake which is a percentage taken from each pot.
Many online sites will pay you back a portion of the rake you pay if you sign up through special referrers. Not signing up will cost you real money in the short and long run. Fundamental Theory of Poker Every time you play a hand differently from the way you would have played it if you could see all your opponents' cards, they gain; and every time you play your hand the same way you would have played it if you could see all their cards, they lose. Conversely, every time opponents play their hands differently from the way they would have if they could see all your cards, you gain; and every time they play their hands the same way they would have played if they could see all your cards, you lose.
See by David Slansky for more. What Game to Play. I would start in no limit (NL) cash games. Limit games are pretty boring IMO and pot limit omaha is a little too crazy for new players, but YMMV. Play the smallest stakes available until you are crushing it, then move up to the next stake level. Tournaments have way too much variance for a newbie IMO. Here is one.
Pot Odds. The math of poker is pretty simply until you get much farther along with analyzing equity against hand ranges, and even then, a lot of players don't even bother with it. Here is a good start on. Here is which covers the rule of 2/4 which is about calculating the odds of hitting your outs. It is the bane of all poker players. The 2+2 anthologies below contain a lot of great strategies for dealing with. Please don't though.
Bankroll Management. Stolen from icanhazstax: Bankroll Management - While solid poker players have an edge against their opponents, and this edge allows these individuals to make money over the long run, the short term with regards to poker can be very unpredictable.
These short-term swings are referred to as Variance (positive & negative variance). Due to variance, Bankroll Management is essential for anyone looking at poker from more than just an entertainment perspective. By following 'rules' of proper BR management, and thus having enough buyins in your bankroll to stand the possible negative variance swings, one can assure the chances of them going 'busto' (losing their entire roll) is significantly decreased. While the number of suggested buyins can be debated, 'imo' the rule is something like: Cash = 20-30 buyins, STT = 40-50 buyins, MTT = 90+ buyins. See the anthologies for more. Levels of Thinking: 1st Level: Your cards 2nd Level: What does your opponent have 3rd Level: What does your opponent think you have 4th Level: What does your opponent think you think he has 5th level: What does your opponent think you think he thinks you have, etc. At the micros, your opponents will almost all be level 1 thinkers.
Don't get tricky; just play ABC poker. See down below for more discussion. Thought Processes. Every time you make an action, you need to know:.
The reason for your action. Why that actions beats the alternatives (check, fold, call, raise, shove, etc.). What your plan is for subsequent events. Here is a of what you should aim your thought processes to be. 2+2 Anthologies This is just a start of what has to offer.
Go to the site and click on the stickied threads for each subforum to discover a wealth of more information covering such things as Sit N Go tournaments, multi-table tournaments, pot limit omaha, and more. These threads are for NLHE as that's the most common game, but most of these basic concepts will apply to almost all poker games. Books There are SO many good poker books out there. I have read a bunch, but that only represents a fraction of what's available. Here are what I think are super helpful books:.
They are about tournament play, which is very different from cash games, but learning his thought processes on hand reading and how to play certain hands is golden. His cash game books are great too.
These guys are geniuses and will teach you SO much about playing poker. Pretty much an essential read.
Great read. Great book on tournament poker. Another great tournament book. Now, I don't encourage or condone pirating, but if you are so inclined, you may be able to find pdf versions of some of these books. HUD Software If you're going to be playing online with any sort of seriousness, using a heads-up display is tremendously useful and almost a necessity.
The two best options are Holdem Manager and Poker Tracker 3. I am partial to HM, as I feel the software and interface have surpassed PT3. They both offer free trials, so maybe see what works for you.
Once you get your HUD established, you'll need to pick which stats. I would start with the following:. Voluntarily put $ into the pot (VPIP) / Preflop raise% (PFR) / Aggression Factor (AF) / # of hands and once you are comfortable with understanding those, you can start adding more such as:. Steal attempts / fold to steal in the small blind (SB) / fold to steal in the big blind (BB). Continuation bet (cbet) flop / Cbbet turn / fold to flop cbet / fold to turn cbet. 3 bet / fold to 3 bet / call 3 bet / 4 bet There are plenty more stats that are very helpful, but don't go too crazy.
It's easy to overwhelm yourself with info, and there are plenty of high stakes guys that only use a barebones hud. (reached character limit) Video Training Sites I feel that training sites offer a lot of value, but as a new player, I think you should first tackle and digest the massive amount of free resources first. I think that once you've worked your way.
On the other hand, if you learn much better by watching than by reading, then sure go ahead. Make sure you do some Googling first to find sign-up deals to save money. These sites all offer some free videos/free trials, so take advantage of those first to get a feel for each one before committing. The sites:. Other Useful Things. for calculating odds and equity. Lots of good things to read on here.
Quite literally, such a software is needed to track the password of email accounts. What is email Hacking Software? Exposicin: mac software mail glitch for mac. Email hacking software is one of the most widely downloaded software applications today.
Reddit Tips. Reddit AMAs by poker players. Steps to Improving.
Start reading through some of these resources. Sign up for a website with rakeback and deposit enough to roll yourself for the smallest stakes the site offers. I say start at the smallest stakes full ring cash game. The variance will be the least, and it's the easiest to play. Wait for the top 15% of hands, and play aggressively.
Review every big hand and every session to look for where you went wrong and where you could improve. Install a HUD and begin to get basic reads on your opponents. Post hands to reddit or 2+2 to get feedback. You should start doing this early, as you are undoubtedly making all kinds of mistakes. Even if you are making good reads, your bet sizing and lines will definitely need work.
Plus, you'll learn how more experienced players are thinking about the spots you find yourself in. Study more and implement what you've learned. Experiment with shorthanded games, SNGs, and MTT, but don't go too crazy as the variance is very high. Keep studying and keep playing, and you will get there. Playing Live I don't play live, so I can't comment, but here are is a collection of good links to help you along.
FAQ. Should I practice with play money?
Most people would say no, and I agree. They do not realistically reflect what real money games are like. In a full ring game, you will rarely see more than 3 or so people to flop, but with play money, pretty much everyone is in the hand. If you have no roll and the site you play on lets you convert play money for real money or for entry into a small tourney, then all you need to do, is nit up like crazy (only play when you have a great hand). Don't bluff and don't waste you're time with anything less than the nuts, or close to it, but don't think that you're really learning anything. Every time I've got a made hand they fold, and every time I bluff, they call.
There is a simple solution: reverse what you do in each situation. You want your made hands to look like a bluff, and vice versa. Are you betting different amounts? Check raising?
Switch your line up to see what works and what doesn't. Also, every poker reg has had to get used to getting no action with aces, and you'll have to, too. Everyone in my home game always calls and then they beat me on the river.
It's ridiculous. First off, no one cares about your bad beat story. We all experience bad beats all the time. Boo fucking hoo. Second, you should feel extremely lucky to be in that game. You want your opponents to make bad decisions even if there is a chance they could suck out.
Stop bluffing them, and just take them to value town. Wait for good cards and then just bet, bet, bet. Would you rather they be good players who won't call you down with middle pair? Final Thoughts This guide is by no means exhaustive, but I think it's a pretty good start for a new player. If you feel I've said something wrong, or if there is even a misspelling/broken link, please let me know.
I hope this has been helpful, and I wish you luck in your poker journey! Brian's Collararies: You suck. BUT everybody sucks starting out. Okay, yes, luck happens to be the province of the beginner. And it is true that you don't know what you don't know yet. Here's the good news. Every poker player started the same exact way.
And with the Internet, it is extremely cheap to practice with real money; even a game where you buy in for four dollars and the blinds are two and four cents will provide you with enough challenge and enough time to make learning poker cheap. Back in the 'old days' they said that you had to lose $10,000 before you actually got good at poker; these days, it's much less. What game to play: A dissenting opinion While No Limit cash games are probably something you'll want to move onto quickly, I would at least consider starting with Limit play. Limit play has more long-term variance than No Limit, however, Limit play allows you to get used to the fundimentals of the game before adding the complexities of bet sizing.
You'll also pick up a fine appreciation of the idea of 'direct pot odds' before considering the more complex 'implied odds' that can be found in No Limit games, and you'll develop 'level one' thinking (i.e.: What is the actual value of my hand) that will serve you well. Many starting players don't really understand the tenuous nature of top pair with a weak kicker (ten or below). I was losing at No Limit until I switched to Limit - there I learned to play tight, aggressively, when it was profitable to chase a draw, and when to let it go. Bankroll Management Bankroll Management isn't just for winning players. I used to be a losing player, but I was able to play for months, practicing, and getting better at my game, because I practiced good bankroll management, and that allowed me to keep playing longer, and keep seeing more hands. Levels of Thinking: Examples. Level 0: 'Wow!
It's got a king in it!' Level 1: 'I fold A9o.
Best Books For Poker Players
I play QJs carefully. QQ is premium. JTs to a cheap flop and in position is very playable, especially multiway.
Kickers are important. I'll call a small bet with top pair, top kicker, but you don't want to play for stacks with it. Level 2: 'While I have AQo, normally a very good hand, in position, my opponent just 3-bet me before the flop. Since he doesn't do that often at all, he could have AQ, AK, QQ, KK, AA, or maybe JJ.
I 'tie' with AQ and JJ, but I'm behind AK, QQ, KK, and AA. I should fold this hand and wait for a better spot.' Level 3: 'I raised preflop with 87s, which is an unusual move for me. My opponent has probably put me on two cards higher than 87. The flop has come 872, and my hand is the best right now. My opponent may have an overpair, which he may bet for value, or he may have two high cards, which he may bet for a bluff, either way, I can get more value with a check/call or check/raise here.' Level 4: 'I raised preflop with 87s, which is an unusual move for me.
My opponent has probably put me on two cards higher than 87. The flop has come 872, and my hand is the best right now. My opponent may have an overpair, which he may bet for value, or he may have two high cards, which he may bet for a bluff. I decide to check/raise, and my opponent re-raises me. This is a tough call, but if my opponent is smart enough and good enough, I should probably fold this - he probably knows that I put him on an overpair, when perhaps it's likely that he has a hand that can beat my top two pair - perhaps 88, 77, or 22.' Level 5: 'I raised preflop with 87s, which is an unusual move for me.
My opponent has probably put me on two cards higher than 87. The flop has come 872, and my hand is the best right now. My opponent may have an overpair, which he may bet for value, or he may have two high cards, which he may bet for a bluff. I decide to check/raise, and my opponent re-raises me. This is a tough call.
But my opponent knows that I'd likely put him on a set with that much strength. But if he actually had a set, he could probably get more value from me on additional streets by calling here. And he knows I'm capable of laying down big-hands when facing aggressive reraises. I think it's more likely that he's doing this as a semibluff - maybe a hand like 56 or T9. Either way, I can't let him catch, I'm all-in.' This is very important - You want to play almost exactly ONE level above your opponents. This can be tough!
But if done right, it can be very profitable. If you fire three barrels with TPTK against a level 0 thinker and he calls, he might be showing up with middle pair or top pair with a poor kicker. Against a level 2 thinker, he's probably got better than TPTK.' Should I practice with play money? If you are absolutely, positively new to the game, and do not understand concepts such as 'the button,' 'blinds,' 'kickers,' or how the game works, play money games will introduce you to the concepts and structure. It's not really the same game, but it will teach you the rules of the game (but not any strategy).
Great corrolaries! Couple of questions. This is very important - You want to play almost exactly ONE level above your opponents. This can be tough! But if done right, it can be very profitable. Why wouldn't you want to play 2 levels above your opponent?
Because you are giving them too much credit? It's not really the same game, but it will teach you the rules of the game (but not any strategy). Why can't you practice strategies talked about here with play money and work on perfecting them before moving on to real money?
Let me give you an example. In my work game (10NL live) we had a lot of very, very new players, who were Level 0 thinkers. They would call down with any piece of the flop, chase any draw, no matter how remote, and it was hard to get them to fold. They would also often bluff and re-raise with absolutely nothing. To beat them, all I had to do was call down with TPTK or better.
In 4NL online on Merge, however, I face a lot of regs who play 18/11/40, and they're capable of making big laydowns, and reading hand ranges. I play a little looser - maybe 25/20/60, to take advantage of dead money that they give up when they surrender the blinds, as well. But in order to play this way, I have to be aware of what they think I might hold, and that they, as players, have to be aware of my range - and that it's wider than their own. So, I often shut down if a flop comes KQ8 - but raise when it comes 972 - for the very reason that they know that I can play a lot of hands, that I'll sometimes limp/call or open with a hand like 87 or 86s. Regardless of what I have.
I'll also fire a single barrel on boards that have one ace, repping A-rag suited, if I've limped with a low pocket pair from late or mid position, as they have to know A-rag is in my range. But here's the thing.
If my opponent doesn't -know- what my range is, or doesn't think about it, they may just think: 'I have a pocket pair of eights. I'll see this down the river.' Then these types of bluffs are non-effective, and firing two or three barrels with air is just spewing money.
Oh, the 'Real money vs. Play money' thing. The problem with Play Money is that the incentives of the players are completely different. No one fears losing pretend chips.
There is no value to them, so there's no threat from losing them. So there are many play money players who make calls that they wouldn't if the money was real - in fact, there's no benefit whatsoever in folding, because you can always get more play chips. So you often see pocket aces shoved preflop, to be called by three or four players.
Against one random hand, Aces are an 80% favorite - against three or four, it goes down to 55% or so. It also gives you bad habits for real money play - for example, almost nobody would call an open-shove with anything other than KK+, and that's not the most profitable way to play aces. By all means, try to get as much money in preflop as possible, and raise, raise, raise, but raise resonable amounts that will be called with worse. The first is 'Voluntarily put money into the pot' - or VP$IP. That's the percentage of hands that a player voluntarily plays. (It doesn't count when everyone limps to the big blind.) The second number is 'Pre-flop Raise percentage' - or PFR.
That's the percentage of hands where the player raised preflop, as opposed to limping, calling, or checking. The third number is the Aggression Frequency postflop. It's the ratio of how often one raises postflop, to the ratio of checking or calling. These are important because a high VP$IP number means that the player is likely to be playing more hands. A player with a high VP$IP has a weaker average starting hand than someone with a lower VP$IP.
A low PFR number (compared to VP$IP) can reveal the strength of a specific hand. A player with a high VP$IP number but a low PFR number should be treated seriously when he raises preflop with a hand - as it means that this time he may have something. A high PFR number compared with a high VP$IP number will also let you know that a preflop raise doesn't necessarily mean premium holdings, as compared to the villain's average playing hand. The last is aggression frequency, and it can be a big indicator of how often players barrel with bluffs or semibluffs. A very non-aggressive player showing a lot of strength with raises and re-raises should be taken seriously. As for books, Dan Harrington has written (since HOH) Harrington on Cash Games V1&2 and Harrington on 6-max - both of which benefit from a more modern view of the game.
While HOH is not totally out of date, it is starting to become very dated (though not so much as books from the mid 90s such as Tom McEvoy's Championship Holdem) Continuing on in books - Jeff Hwang - Pot Limit Omaha. Obviously this book will help your PLO game a bunch, but some of the core concepts are applicable to all games (esp. PL/NL games).